How to start growing willow for basket making.
A question I get asked a lot is how do I get started growing willow? How much area do I need to plant? What varieties would you recommend?
Let’s dive into all of that here.
But firstly I want to say I do not have all the answers. There are so many variables that need to be taken into account. But I will try my best to at least point you in the right direction and allow you to ask yourself the right questions.
Here are some things to consider:
- How many plants do I need?
One plant of willow will throw up rods that are all of different lengths. Depending on what basket you make you will need longer or shorter rods. A willow plant will be in full production after 5 years. After that it will slowly produce less and less. But can still be ‘productive’ for another 20 years or more. One healthy plant, in full production, will have between 10 and 30 rods growing from it on average, depending on variety. One small basket needs around 120 rods. Will 6 plants do? Not all the rods will be of the same length and thickness you would need to make a nice even basket. So not by far.
The usual planting distance is 30 cm /12 inches/ 1ft in between plants in the row, and 60cm /2ft between rows. This would mean you have 5 plants per square meter. And about 10,000 plants per half acre.
Once you start growing willow and making baskets you will find that you never have enough. I think that if you have the space ¼ acre would be a great area to aim for.
- Start small.
Not all varieties will grow well for you. Even though they might grow well for others. You will need to trial them. See if you like working with them. And if you do want more, take cuttings from those you like and plant more. For that reason I always give the advise to start small. Try a few varieties first and see how well they do. Then expand over time so that eventually you will have your own willow beds with willow that you know you like and does well for you in your soil, your climate and for the type of work you want them for. Often times new growers end up with varieties that grow too tall for the smaller work they actually want to make.
- Varieties.
There are many willow varieties. Not all are suitable for weaving. Start with stock that you know is good for basket making. It does not matter exactly what variety as long as the rods are flexible and thin and do not grow too tall.
In general:
Viminalis varieties grow too tall and have a larger pith, leaving them quite unsuitable for basket making. Great for outdoor structures.
Purpurea varieties are generally smaller and thinner but more susceptible to diseases.
Triandras are all round good rods, reliable but not exciting in colour. They strip more easily so used for that purpose to make into buff and white willow.
Rubra varieties are a cross so generally more disease resistant.
Alba varieties are great for colour but can grow a little tall.
Check out my video on YouTube about my favourite willow varieties here:
- Where to plant?
Willow needs full sun and no competition from other tree roots. It is best to give them their own growing area.
To allow the roots to get established there should not be any competition with weeds either in the first two or three years at least. After that their own leaf growth will shade out the worst of them. Weeds can be kept down by planting through a weed suppressing membrane, mulch or work the soil.
Willow is very forgiving about what soil it grows in. It does need full sun, regular rainfall or good moisture retentive soil and soil that is not too rich in nutrients. A rich soil will allow the rods to grow too tall. And once you make baskets you soon find out that those rods are not the ones we want.
Willow is often planted near streams and wet ground. They do like water but contrary to belief will not survive if the roots are underneath the water level for more then a few months at a time. Also consider access, as it is usually during the wettest times of year that willow needs to be harvested.
- How to plant?
Willow grows best from cuttings, living willow sticks, pushed into the ground. Push the cutting 20cm/4inches into the ground at least, more if the cuttings are longer, and leave about the same length sticking out at the top. New leaves willow soon appear in spring. Then branches too.
- Experiment
I would advise you to experiment, try things out and have fun! There is no one way to grow willow and you will soon find the way that works best for you, your land and available time.
I’ve just ordered some cuttings from you & wondering – if I cut the grass (part of a field) & lay down weed suppressant membrane can I put the cuttings straight into it? or should I put them in pots to grow until the membrane has killed the grass first?
Yes you can plant straight through a membrane when the grass has not yet died. Make sure to weigh down the fabric properly as it easily pulls away from the grounds when freshly put down.
You make it all so easy
Good morning Hanna, very excited get planting. My question is how far from building I should plant the willows. We gave a ‘B’ but busy road next to the field I wanted to plant and some houses the other side. Could I use the land for willows specifically? Many thanks.
I would stay 2 meters away from buildings, for the structures sake but they will also give too much shade for the plants to grow well. Also make sure to stay away from pipes, drains and septic systems as the roots will find the water eventually and block pipes.
Thank you for your reply Hanna. I am going to plant through fabric membrane. In general, how big should a block of planting be? Narrow long blocks etc or does it not matter? Been out walking the planting space this afternoon. Thank you again.
It does not matter at all.
Hi Hanna! Thank you for inspiring a love of basket making in me. I’m about to plant my willow sticks and I was assured by the seller that being a basket variety, that these will not be invasive to drains etc. I did question them straight after I’d made my order, as I suddenly thought I didn’t want to be irresponsible in my small rural (rainy) town by planting these on the border with my neighbour. I plan to coppice/pollard them yearly of course. So I’m hoping they were not trying placate me by telling me they were ok to plant to avoid me canceling my order! Should I plant or no? Many thanks in advance.
Thank you Hanna for this generous blog! One question remains: When is the best time to plant the cuttings? Fall or spring?
The best time to plant will depend on where you are and if you have hard frost and/or snow. If so plant just before or after snow and frost. Willow is frost resistant though and will do fine with a little below freezing but you cannot plant when the soil is frozen.
Other then that plant during the dormant season, before spring growth.
In your experience are there some varieties that do better spaced more than 1 ft apart like viminalus or Daphnoides? If so, which varieties or would you just plant them all at 1ft apart & 2 ft for rows? Thanks again
In my experience I have not had any varieties that would need more space then the usual spacing. I have some varieties that grow too tall however and I have spaced them closer together, 1ft in all directions, to increase competition between plants so they grow smaller. For me those varieties are Flanders red, Britzensis and Daphnoides. But that could be different for you depending on what variety grows too strong for you in your soil and climate.
Thank you Hannah, much appreciated
Thanks for this Hanna. This is helpful. I came across your site in quite a round about route, I have never attempted basket making, although I love arts and crafts, but now feeling I’d love to give it a go.
We are potentially moving to a smallholding in Leitrim some time in the next year. The soil is boggy in winter, dry in summer, currently full of rushes. I put in a few wild willow cuttings in the spring, as we can’t do much else at the mo, in the hope they might absorb some of the water and the leaf litter might be good for the soil. (A few of them survived, I now know I put them in too late, and we weren’t there over the long dry spell) But it got me to thinking, maybe we could grow some willow for basketry and living willow projects, so I’ve been researching it.
I also love watching your videos! Very relaxing. :)
Hello,
Thank you for all your advice and content.
When planting Willow, is it advisable to plant different types away from each other? Will they cross pollinate or is this not a problem as they are coppiced each year?
Hi Sam,
You can plant different willow varieties together, no problem. The only thing you need to think about is that the more vigorous varieties don’t crowd out the smaller ones. Willow does cross pollinate. But this is irrelevant for a coppiced willow bed. The plant that grow won’t change variety. And the willow is harvested each year so no seed develop. Also most cultivated varieties are male only, as they are propagated from cuttings, so are identical clones. If you would leave the willow to grow on for two years seeds may form and fertilise wild varieties. Those seeds need to fall on open ground to propagate. All to say this will not just happen in your willow beds.
Hello,
Many thanks for your reply.
sam
You mention the length to put into the ground. There is some confusion between metric and imperial length. 20cm is 8 inches.
What is the best time of year to do willow cutting and can they be done at any time of year?
Thank you for your article.
Bill
Hi Bill. Only cut back willow in the dormant season, once the leaves have dropped.
Hi Hanna. I would love to start experimenting with growing willow. But in case it’s not my thing, I would like to ask for advice how to kill them off. I’m afraid that once established, I won’t be able to get rid if them if I want to do something else with that plot of land. Thank you in advance!
Hi Katja, once planted, and you would like to remove willow plants, ou will have to dig them out. This is best done by digging around the plant to cut off the roots, then pulling it up, much like a tree. If the willow is harvested each year the roots will not be too large to handle as opposed to a tree just left to grow tall and big. Hope this helps.
Hi Hanna, I would greatly appreciate your advice. I rooted some cuttings last year and planted them out this year. They are looking very happy with 6 to 10, 2ft to 3ft long shoots. How and when do we begin to coppice them?
Hi there, lovely work and great information. I live in southern prairies of Canada, our climate is comparable to Siberia. Which varieties for basketry and also soMe for structures would do well with a week or two at -35celsius?
Hi Keith, most willow is very cold resistant and can take below freezing temps for a long time plus snow. Look for Viminalis for structures, and try out some varieties and see what will work for your specific climate.
Hello! I grow my willow on an allotment in the south of England. The yield was really disappointing this year – stunted growth, much branching, nothing more than about 4 foot. The stools are 3-4 years old. Could it be due to the really hot June and me not watering them? Is that my rookie error? I assumed they’d be fine as they are quite well established…will they recover?
Hi Keith, really hard to say. But yes the dry early summer was hard on my willow too, as this is at the time they need the water the most and are making lots of leaves and growth.
HI Hannah! Thank you for your generosity in sharing your wisdom. I’m wondering how long will my harvested willow be viable for, to use as cuttings? i harvested some over a month ago, and want to create more cuttings from some of it. do you think it will still be viable? it has been drying in buckets in my greenhouse.
Can willow be used as a wind break/hedgerow for a farm? Would one or tow rows be best for this purpose?
Yes, great for a windbreak. One row would be fine.
I am primarily interested in making taller tomato & vine supports. I am wondering if there are certain varieties that are known to grow quite tall & strong?
Hello Hanna. I’ve stumbled on your YouTube channel and love your work. I love it so much in fact that I purchased some willows from you.
I read rich soil can be bad for willows when making baskets. But what about mulch? Can I still use mulch to make sure weeds won’t take over my baby willows?
Hi Billy,
You sure can mulch willow. I would just not suggest you use manure, but something like grass, hay. straw, cardboard, woodchips (from hardwood, not coniferous) etc. Because yes willow grown on rich soil will grow too tall and soft.
Hi Hanna,
We have deer so, in your opinion, if I were to over box (make a cage) how tall would I need to make it? I can remove the lid of the cage to gather or do maintenance but, there are so many deer, I don’t want to fail before I even begin. Thank you in advance for your guidance. Great information set by the way. Thanks again.
I am wondering if you have ever heard of growing willow for basketry in large pots, if you don’t own land and have to move them. I know they will eventually get too big for pots, but wondering if there would be enough willow to make some baskets until a proper place is set up.
Is it possible to harvest willow just at/and just after bud break. Will it still be flexible enough to weave with?barn@gmail.com